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The SEER (seasonal energy efficiency ratio) is how the efficiency of your heating and cooling equipment is measured. The SEER is the amount of cooling your system will deliver per dollar spent on electricity, as compared to other systems. For example, a 3-ton unit may have a SEER efficiency rating of 13, 14, or 15. The higher the SEER the more efficient the system will be. The SEER rating of any given unit can range anywhere from 13 to 21.
Each split system cooling unit has a nominal SEER rating. This rating can be increased with the upgrade of the same series indoor unit. The SEER rating of a system is based on the combination of equipment installed in the home. The outdoor equipment (heat pump or air conditioner), as well as the indoor equipment (evaporator coil and furnace, or air handler), play a vital role in the total rating.
Your heating and cooling systems work incredibly hard to perform their functions for your home everyday. The constant stopping, starting and continual operation can wear down any machine if the proper care and maintenance is delayed. However, by performing regular maintenance, you can maximize the lifecycle of your heating or cooling unit and guard against many common equipment failures. Preventive maintenance inspections performed on a regular basis can uncover leaks, rust, rot, soot, frayed wires and corroded electrical contacts. You should have maintenance completed on your system regularly to ensure maximum efficiency and prevent possible problems that may occur in the near future.
Heat pumps and air conditioners require a professional tune-up twice a year; in the spring and fall. Inspections on boiler and furnace systems should include ductwork, pipes, dampers, valves, the chimney, registers, radiators, pumps, blowers, fuel lines, oil tank and every part of the actual furnace and boiler. Meanwhile, heat pump and air conditioning unit inspections should also include inspections of the fan, compressor, indoor coils, outdoor coils, and refrigerant lines.
As your local Trane dealer, we are your troubleshooting expert, and is glad to help you. In addition, Trane also provides a network of troubleshooting technicians at Trane Distribution centers across the country which we will utilize to address your concern. Should we encounter a situation that requires additional factory help, we will contact our factory supported Service Manager(s) for assistance.
Since they are electronic, programmable thermostats are more accurate and efficient than thermostats that contain mercury. With programmable thermostats you can control the temperature in your home at different times of day without ever touching your thermostat. Because everything is automatic, you will never forget to change the setting on your own.
Standard filters work to keep your system and its ductwork clean, but they don’t really improve indoor air quality. To do that you need a media air cleaner. The media filter rests between the main return duct and the blower cabinet and will improve dust and particle removal up to seven times that of a standard filter. However, upgrading to a pleated media filter will remove everything from dust to airborne viruses from the filtered air. Always choose a filter that matches your blower’s capacity. For optimal efficiency and filtration, we recommend that you replace your disposable filters at least once a month. If you have washable filters, they should be cleaned once a month.
Filters for your Trane unit are made from higher-quality materials than those of the disposable filters found in retail stores. For that reason, replacement Trane filters can only be purchased through a Trane dealer. However, keep in mind that some Trane filters are reusable, and can be washed by hand in cold water.
There are many factors that affect the sizing and specifications of your system, including square footage, insulation, window surface and configuration, geographic location of your home, duct sizing and arrangement, and many others. We can perform an in-home load analysis to determine which equipment combinations will perfectly suit your home and your family’s needs. Depending upon the construction of your home, one (1) ton of air conditioning can cool anywhere from 300 to 800 square feet of home. The only way to ensure the size of the system you purchase will be large enough to heat or cool your home, but not any larger than you need, is to have your home’s individual heating and cooling needs evaluated by a licensed professional.
Dependable Trane products are among the longest lasting heating and cooling products available. For your specific equipment, there are many variables that affect life expectancy, including, of course, the regularity of routine maintenance.
The SEER (seasonal energy efficiency ratio) is how the efficiency of your heating and cooling equipment is measured. The SEER is the amount of cooling your system will deliver per dollar spent on electricity, as compared to other systems. For example, a 3-ton unit may have a SEER efficiency rating of 13, 14, or 15. The higher the SEER the more efficient the system will be. The SEER rating of any given unit can range anywhere from 13 to 21.
Each split system cooling unit has a nominal SEER rating. This rating can be increased with the upgrade of the same series indoor unit. The SEER rating of a system is based on the combination of equipment installed in the home. The outdoor equipment (heat pump or air conditioner), as well as the indoor equipment (evaporator coil and furnace, or air handler), play a vital role in the total rating.
Your heating and cooling systems work incredibly hard to perform their functions for your home everyday. The constant stopping, starting and continual operation can wear down any machine if the proper care and maintenance is delayed. However, by performing regular maintenance, you can maximize the lifecycle of your heating or cooling unit and guard against many common equipment failures. Preventive maintenance inspections performed on a regular basis can uncover leaks, rust, rot, soot, frayed wires and corroded electrical contacts. You should have maintenance completed on your system regularly to ensure maximum efficiency and prevent possible problems that may occur in the near future.
Heat pumps and air conditioners require a professional tune-up twice a year; in the spring and fall. Inspections on boiler and furnace systems should include ductwork, pipes, dampers, valves, the chimney, registers, radiators, pumps, blowers, fuel lines, oil tank and every part of the actual furnace and boiler. Meanwhile, heat pump and air conditioning unit inspections should also include inspections of the fan, compressor, indoor coils, outdoor coils, and refrigerant lines.
As your local Trane dealer, we are your troubleshooting expert, and is glad to help you. In addition, Trane also provides a network of troubleshooting technicians at Trane Distribution centers across the country which we will utilize to address your concern. Should we encounter a situation that requires additional factory help, we will contact our factory supported Service Manager(s) for assistance.
Since they are electronic, programmable thermostats are more accurate and efficient than thermostats that contain mercury. With programmable thermostats you can control the temperature in your home at different times of day without ever touching your thermostat. Because everything is automatic, you will never forget to change the setting on your own.
Standard filters work to keep your system and its ductwork clean, but they don’t really improve indoor air quality. To do that you need a media air cleaner. The media filter rests between the main return duct and the blower cabinet and will improve dust and particle removal up to seven times that of a standard filter. However, upgrading to a pleated media filter will remove everything from dust to airborne viruses from the filtered air. Always choose a filter that matches your blower’s capacity. For optimal efficiency and filtration, we recommend that you replace your disposable filters at least once a month. If you have washable filters, they should be cleaned once a month.
Filters for your Trane unit are made from higher-quality materials than those of the disposable filters found in retail stores. For that reason, replacement Trane filters can only be purchased through a Trane dealer. However, keep in mind that some Trane filters are reusable, and can be washed by hand in cold water.
There are many factors that affect the sizing and specifications of your system, including square footage, insulation, window surface and configuration, geographic location of your home, duct sizing and arrangement, and many others. We can perform an in-home load analysis to determine which equipment combinations will perfectly suit your home and your family’s needs. Depending upon the construction of your home, one (1) ton of air conditioning can cool anywhere from 300 to 800 square feet of home. The only way to ensure the size of the system you purchase will be large enough to heat or cool your home, but not any larger than you need, is to have your home’s individual heating and cooling needs evaluated by a licensed professional.
Dependable Trane products are among the longest lasting heating and cooling products available. For your specific equipment, there are many variables that affect life expectancy, including, of course, the regularity of routine maintenance.
As a Trane dealer, we are the best resource for identifying and supplying the correct, current parts for your system, as well as pricing and availability.
Under the standard factory warranty, Trane covers parts that fail during the warranty period due to defect in the part. The warranty does not cover labor. A warranty certificate was included with your homeowner information packet, and is specific to the model numbers, serial numbers and installation dates of your products. All Trane equipment that we install is registered with Trane Corporation to ensure your 10 year parts warranty. If you cannot find your warranty certificate, we will also be able to provide you with that information. With a Total Comfort Plan, you’ll have a ten year parts and labor warranty on your Trane equipment.
In short, yes, you need surge protection. Given the amount of sensitive electronics in the modern home, surge protectors are more important now than they ever have been.
A surge protector protects against voltage spikes that are too high for your home’s electric or electronic devices to handle on their own. Lightning is the classic cause of power surges, but malfunctions in the public power system can be just as dangerous. Even momentary exposure to voltage that’s too high for your electronics can destroy them instantly, so it’s very important to keep a surge protector between your devices and the wall outlet.
Be sure to distinguish between power strips that just provide extra outlets and true surge protectors. You don’t need to go overboard and get maximum protection; 1500 joules is enough to protect against anything short of a direct lightning strike.
Circuit breakers can trip for many reasons, but they’re all indicative of problems with your home’s electrical system. Don’t just ignore the issue! First, try tightening up any loose electrical connections, which are a very common cause of tripping.
Sometimes, circuit breakers trip because the system is overloaded. Try unplugging any high-load appliances and see if that fixes the problem. You may need to unplug some appliances before using others to keep your system from being overloaded.
When your circuit breaker trips, try to reset it once by turning it off and on again. If it trips again immediately, don’t try to reset it again, as this probably indicates a direct short.
If your breaker feels hot to the touch, it may be improperly installed or defective. Once you’ve unplugged high-load appliances to confirm that your system isn’t just overloaded, call an electrician to diagnose and repair the problem.
When a single circuit breaker trips, some of the outlets in your home may stop working. Try resetting the breaker to see if the problem is resolved; if the breaker trips again, it may be overloaded.
If you’ve lost an outlet in your kitchen or bathroom, the ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) may be to blame. Modern building codes require outlets located near sinks to be GFCI, which means they’ll shut down by themselves when a short is detected. Resetting all GFCI outlets in the room usually fixes the problem.
Outlets can literally burn out; if you see any blackening around the plug, discontinue use immediately. Finally, some outlets may shut down for no apparent reason, especially in older homes. You’ll need an electrician to come in to repair the problem.
Loud humming or buzzing is a serious red flag that indicates a significant issue with your electrical system. Often, buzzing means that the breaker is carrying a large load but is unable to trip and shut itself off. To prevent overheating, the breaker should be replaced right away.
If sparking or fizzling accompanies the buzzing sound, there may be a connection problem. If the breaker buzzes and immediately shuts off, there’s likely an issue with the electrical circuit rather than the breaker. Depending on the extent of the damage, a repair may be as simple as fixing the circuit or as involved as replacing the entire breaker. Either way, the problem should be fixed immediately to prevent further damage.
Sometimes, a large appliance such as an air conditioner or heat pump can cause the lights in your home to flicker when it powers on. If you notice flickering when your air conditioner starts up, have a technician look at the unit and confirm that the electrical connections are not loose or defective.
If the flickering is confined to one room or one general area of the house, you may have bad light bulbs, a bad connection between the bulbs and fixture sockets or a loose wire in the circuit for that part of the house. Loose wires can be tricky to diagnose because of the number of connections in the entire house, so you’ll likely need a professional circuit diagnosis to identify the issue.
Flickering throughout the house may indicate a problem with your main electrical service, such as a loose service conductor in the main electrical panel. Loose conductors will only get worse with time, so you’ll need to have an electrician address the issue right away.
As compared to ordinary incandescent bulbs, CFL and LED lights last much longer and use much less energy. To get the equivalent of a 60 watt-incandescent bulb, you’ll only need a 15-watt CFL bulb or an 8-watt LED. Using high-efficiency bulbs throughout the house can cut your electric bills by hundreds yearly, and the bulbs themselves won’t need to be replaced as often.
Both CFL and LED light bulbs produce much less heat than ordinary incandescent bulbs, and their high energy efficiency reduces carbon dioxide emissions. LED bulbs are also very durable; they can handle bumping and jarring without breaking and aren’t affected by frequently being switched on and off. However, the high up-front cost of LED bulbs makes CFL a significantly cheaper option with current technology.
Because your circuit breaker is sized for the wiring in the electrical circuit, replacing it with a larger breaker can actually be a fire hazard. For instance, if you have a 15A breaker, the wire is most likely 14-gauge. Replace the 15A with a 20A, and the 14-gauge wire will have to carry more current than it’s rated to pass. Over time, this can cause overheating and destroy the insulation.
If your circuit breaker is defective, replacing it with a new breaker of the same size is likely enough to fix the problem. Don’t try to install a larger breaker without calling an electrician to confirm that your electrical system can handle it.
There are two safe ways to bring power outdoors for outbuildings or garden appliances. The first is to run cable overhead or underground. If the overhead span to be crossed is less than 10 feet, you can use ordinary PVC-sheathed cable; otherwise, you need a tension support wire and cable buckets. If you choose to go underground instead, you can use PVC conduit or an underground cable.
The second option is to install a dedicated outdoor socket outlet, eliminating the need for trailing extension cords. To protect anyone working outdoors, either use an outlet with its own GFCI protection or connect it to an existing GFCI outlet inside the house. Regardless of the method you choose, you’ll need to contact your local building codes department to make sure your outdoor setup is compliant and get it inspected and certified.
Replacing a light switch isn’t terribly difficult, but as with all things electrical, safety comes first. First, go to your electrical panel and confirm that the circuit you’re going to be working on is switched off. If there’s anyone else in the house, put a sign on the panel to make sure no one accidentally switches it back on while you’re doing work.
With the power off, remove the wall panel and use a volt meter to confirm that this particular circuit has been shut off. Loosen the screws on either side and remove the wires, then loosen the screw on the bottom and remove the ground wire. For safety reasons, the ground wire should always be the last off and the first on. With the wires disconnected, discard the old light switch.
Installing the new light switch is as simple as reversing the removal process. Connect the ground wire first, then the wires on either side. Re-secure the mounting screws, replace the wall plate and go back to the electrical panel to turn the power back on.
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